After a restful night in Tracy Arm Cove, we headed north knowing we didn’t want to rush to make Auke Bay (70NM) in a day. With glassy conditions, we motored north headed for Taku Harbour.
The cruise ship, Zaandam, plies the calm waters and, in the distance, sits Admiralty Island. It was formerly known as Kootznoowoo, or “fortress of bears” by the Tlingits. It is home to many brown bears and has the highest densities of nesting bald eagles in the world. Admiralty Island National Monument (a national park) encompasses most of the island. Cross Admiralty Canoe Route connects the east with the west side of the island, crossing many lakes with portage trails dating back the the 1930s. Pack Creek is a prime bear viewing area, only accessible by boat or float plane. Permits are required. For us, the timing was not right as bears are more often present later in the summer when the salmon are running. Certainly worth exploring but Glacier Bay was calling.
With the flat seas, Monty was inspired to make French Toast with the last of the sourdough bread from Ketchikan. We remarked it was amazing it lasted that long but the cold boat storage likely played a part!
We slowed down for a while so Monty could fish. No bites. Pretty hopeless but hopefully our luck and skill will improve.
27 NM from Tracy Arm, we tied up with Darwin Sound at a public dock in Taku State Marine Park. We enjoyed the sunny afternoon on the dock.
The sign below provides some information about who runs the park and how it is funded. It is nice to be able to use these well-built public Alaskan facilities. Helps to be an oil rich state too!
Monty set a crab trap while Irene did some sketching in her charming log book.
Never idle long, Al (now 80 years young) climbed the mast to check his AIS antenna and clean the spreaders on this way up.
Irene followed his instructions with precision, tensioning the safety line as he climbed up and lowered himself down.
In Taku Harbour, a second public dock was along the shore near the old cannery.
Pilings from the old cannery structures line the shore.
The remains of a booming cannery industry were gradually being absorbed into the earth. Thousands of sheets of tin covered the beach.
The pilings detail where the large cannery once stood. Old machinery continues to rest on top of the decaying pilings while more is sprinkled around.
On our way back, Irene walked over to check out the large yacht called Estancia on the dock. A guy stepped off the yacht and started a conversation with Irene. Through some further investigation, she thought we might know him. It turned out it was Stedem, who we had met in Whangarei, New Zealand, years ago. Small world! He was on board helping a friend bring Estancia up to Alaska.
Stedem owns a 70ft FPB motor yacht built in Whangerei, NZ, and launched just before Covid hit. He briefly shared a bit of his challenging experience bringing the boat to the US during the international Covid lockdowns.
The next morning, it was 10 degrees in the cabin before Monty turned on the hydronic heater. After a quick shot of espresso, he went off in the dinghy to pull up the crab trap. No keepers. The sea otters had probably been here before us.
By 0630, we set off with Darwin Sound, motoring north again, but this time with the main sail raised. We did some sailing up Stephens Passage, with Al & Irene always racing us!
As we rounded Douglas Island off Juneau, dozens of eagles, arctic loons and seagulls were feeding on the fish stirred up by humpbacks. We stopped the boat for a while to watch them. Eagles fought each other over their catches. Numerous loons were busy at the surface.
Eagle and Arctic Loon compete for a fish. Loon gives way!
It was amazing how close the loons were to the humpback as it surfaced.
The scenery was hard to ignore with the eagles, seagulls and loons competing for our attention.
As we turned away toward Auke bay, a pair of surf scoters appeared.
And their flock! There were hundreds if not thousands!
We cruised into Auke Bay, just north of Juneau, took on fuel and found space on the dock. It was another “large day” in Alaska, with some sunshine and wildlife galore!
A blog on our Auke Bay and Juneau experience is coming next! Thanks for following. Your comments are welcome.
